This post deals with pattern cutting and sewing (stitching) of a princess line (directed from neckline) blouse with raglan style.
Happy Deepavali/Diwali to all Indian Readers! Hope you celebrated your Diwali in eco-friendly way!
Fabric – Shell, Underlining and Lining
I took a dark leaf green chiffon sari as my shell (main) fabric. The blouse piece was with golden zari and sequin buttas. It was with a large emphasising floral motif for the back part. I decided not to use this directly for the blouse back. My idea was to make a yo-yo patch work of it.
I planned to use a golden tissue fabric as underlining for a shimmering effect. I selected a dark leaf green 2X2 material for lining.
Cutting Fabrics for Princess Line Blouse
I planned for pattern cutting. I placed lining material on fold. I placed centre back part and sleeves at the folded edge. I placed the remaining patterns as follows. I drew the pattern, carefully, along with notches.
I cut the patterns in the lining material.
Later, I spread the shell (chiffon) material on the table. It was highly slippery. So, I placed the patterns cut on lining material and firmed it on the chiffon using pins. I cut them all. I had cut central back and sleeves patterns in a golden tissue material as well. I wanted to place them next to the chiffon shell as to add a shimmering effect.
Step 1: Joining the shell, underlining and lining
In this project, my dark green blouse material is the shell fabric. Golden tissue fabric is used as underlining. 2X2 material is the lining fabric.
I took the centre back parts. I placed the golden tissue fabric and green chiffon fabric up on the lining material, facing right sides. I tacked the three layers using a basting stitch as shown.
I took side panels of back part. I placed them up on the lining material facing right sides. I did basting on the stitching line as shown.
I took centre front panels. I placed them up on the lining parts and did basting on the stitching lines as shown. Then I took side panels of front part, placed them on the lining materials facing right sides.
I placed golden tissue and green chiffon up on lining fabric, facing right sides. I did basting on the stitching lines as shown.
I stitched along all the basted guide lines. Basting helped to avoid fabric slipping. Later, I turned all the panels inside out. I basted all the remaining open edges.
Step 2: Joining panels
Back Bodice Panels
There were three back panels, one centre back and two side panels. I joined the side panels to the centre panel matching the notches.
Front Bodice Panels
Front panels include two centre front panels and two side panels. I sewed left side panel and left side front panel matching the notches. Similarly, I joined the right side panels.
I took the front patti or fastening strips cut in shell and lining, each for each sides.
I sewed the fastening strips to the centre.
Step 3: Joining Sleeves
I took left side sleeve. I matched the front armscye (armhole curve) of the sleeve with the left side armscye of the front bodice. Slightly stretching at the required curved areas, I sewed and joined the armscye. Similarly, I joined back armscye of the left side.
In the same way, I sewed right side sleeve too. I had placed all the joining parts facing their right sides.
More details and pictures in the link: Magic fit Blouse (click here)
Step 4: Joining The Side Seams
I kept the front and back bodices facing right sides. I matched the notches and stitched along the side. I left almost 2 inch ease allowance. I turned the blouse right side out. I stitched hook and eye fasteners at the centre. The blouse looks as shown.
This is how I stitched Princess Line Blouse in a slippery (chiffon) fabric. I added a surface ornamentation using a yo-yo patch work method. I know, I have already taken your valuable time. So, let me share the final ornamentation part in the next week.
Thanks for your time!
Bye until the next post!
Till then we could meet at The Arts & Me along with my daily posts!