Making Cholakaapta with Eyes for blouse fitting

A sew it yourself idea and style tips for adjusting blouse fitting with blouse adjuster with eyes, with an animated GIF.

I have been wondering if there is an easy way to fit into a blouse after weight gains. When the idea of Cholakaapta – the blouse adjuster panel  came to me, I was unsure if something like that can be made. I shared my thoughts with my Amma (mother). She was thrilled and told, “Just do it!” I made my first Cholakaapta, the shirred type. Happy Amma told, “When are you planning to share it in Tantu? Your readers may need this!”

It took almost one and a half-year for the Cholakaaptas to appear in Tantu. Meantime, I did some refinements in the Cholakaaptas by adding tucks. We have been talking about this topic almost for a month now. This post about Cholakaapta with eyes is the last one in the series. 

Cholakaapta with Eyes or Eye-controlled Cholakaapta 

This is another refined Cholakaapta with rectangular panel for blouse bodice adjustment with hooks and eyes fastening at sides to attach with blouse at its fastening. Eyes are added at desired places for varied fit. A fashion illustration of a girl wearing a sari blouse with Eye-controlled Cholakaapta drawn with Autodesk Sketch app.

The measurements change is not uniform when we gain or lose weight. More width is needed near the bust centre than in the upper and lower parts. Considering this, the eyes are used in the adjuster for shaping the blouse bodice. If size changes are not regular, this adjuster is the best to use. 

How to make?

Measurements

  • Eye-controlled Cholakaapta length – This length is taken measuring the centre front of the blouse. It varies depending up on blouse type and design variation.
  • Eye-controlled Cholakaapta width – I have taken 6 cm (≈2.5 inches) width. Eyes are added at desired points to adjust the width. This measurement is usually sufficient except for new moms.

Materials used

  • Absorbent cotton material (good quality lining material or cotton 2×2). Any colour can be selected. I chose brown and beige coloured lining materials for each side.
  • Matching colour thread
  • Blouse hooks 5

Tools needed

  • Basic sewing machine
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Hand shears
  • Thread trimmer

Method I followed

Sew Yourself - Cholakaapta with Eyes - Animated GIF

Sew Yourself – Cholakaapta with Eyes – Animated GIF

  • I took the pre-washed fabric in two layers placing the fabrics with wrong sides together. I marked the length and width.
  • Length = Eye-controlled Cholakaapta length + 1cm seam allowance at the top + 1cm seam allowance at the bottom
  • Width = Eye-controlled Cholakaapta width + 2.5cm for fastening allowance at the right side + 2.5cm fastening allowance at left side + 1cm seam allowance at the right side + 1cm seam allowance at the left side
  • Then follows cutting of the fabrics together.
  • Fabric strips are kept with right sides facing together. I sewed them together leaving a two-inch gap in the middle of a side. This gap is for bringing the right side out.
  • I trimmed the seam allowance near the pointed corners in V shape. This helps to avoid bulky point after turning to the right side.
  • I turned the fabric panel inside out.
  • I sewed along the edges at about 2mm from the edge and sealed the opening.
  • I sewed along the length of the panel, 2.5cm away, in the right side. I repeated the same in the left side too. This is to position eyes for fastening.
  • Now it is the time to mark for the hooks and eyes. In the side 1 (say beige), I marked hooks positions at the right side. I turned the panel to the other side. I marked eyes positions at the right side of the panel in the side 2 (other colour i.e., brown). This means hooks and eyes are in opposite sides.
  • Sew tucks.
  • I sewed hooks in the side 1 and eyes in the side 2.

Eye-controlled Cholakaapta is ready. Attach this blouse adjuster to the right side of the blouse, by fastening the blouse hooks with Cholakaapta eyes. Wear the blouse and fasten the blouse with the hooks of the panel.

Tips for using Cholakaapta with Eyes

  • Eye-controlled Cholakaapta is comfortable to wear with all the blouse types. Traditional 8 darted yoke front blouses, easy to make sari blouses without yoke and princess cut blouses.
  • Eye-controlled Cholakaapta can be paired with back opening blouses if size variation is uniform. In this case, the fabric that appears on the right side is changed according to the blouse material.
  • Eye-controlled Cholakaapta is not suggested to use with sheer sarees. If at all it is used, same coloured blouse adjuster is preferable. It is possible to use a contrast coloured blouse adjuster, but requires expert advice.

Dear Tantu Enthusiast, I am happy to know that the Cholakaapta series has given some ideas to you. Temporary weight gains are now harmless! I believe, pregnancy and postnatal phase won’t restrict us from wearing any sari blouse! Please keep me informed about your inputs. Thank you!

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Blouse fitting – Cholakaapta with Tucks

A make it yourself idea and style tips for adjusting blouse fitting with blouse adjuster with tucks, with an animated GIF.

Fashion keeps changing constantly. But, we girls have sentiments for some of our saris and their blouses. Fitting into our favourite blouses is the concern of most of us. We have been discussing about this hot topic, sari blouse bodice adjustments with simple tricks and with blouse adjusters since two weeks. Today, let’s see how to make a Cholakaapta with tucks and style tips.

Cholakaapta with Tucks or Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta 

This is a refined Cholakaapta with shaped panel for blouse bodice adjustment with hooks and eyes fastening at sides to attach with blouse at its fastening. Tucks are used to shape the panel and eyes are added at desired points for varied fit. This blouse adjuster type blends well with the blouse shape unlike the raised shirred type blouse adjuster that stands out with its unique texture.

A fashion illustration of a girl wearing A sari blouse with Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta. This illustration is drawn with fingertip using Autodesk Sketch app.

The fitting requirements are not the same at all the points in the bodice. More room is needed at the centre than in the sides. Considering this, the tucks are used for shaping. When size changes are not regular, this adjuster is the best to use. This type of Cholakaapta goes well with plain sari blouses and princess cut blouses. 

How to make?

Measurements

  • Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta length – This length is taken measuring the centre front of the blouse. It varies depending up on blouse type and design variation.
  • Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta width – I have taken 6 cm (≈2.5 inches) width. After tucking, this width will reduce to 5 cm (≈ 2 inches) to the blouse width. This measurement is usually sufficient except for new moms. 

Materials used

  • Absorbent cotton material (good quality lining material or cotton 2×2). Any colour can be selected. I chose a beige coloured and a brown coloured lining material. (In fact, this Cholakaapta was made as two-way. Beige side for light coloured blouses and brown side for dark blouses. Pictures are edited to fit for the tutorial.)
  • Matching colour thread
  • Blouse hooks 5 (equal to that in the blouse)

Tools needed

  • Basic sewing machine
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Hand shears
  • Thread trimmer

Method I followed

Cholakaapta with Tucks Animated GIF

  • I took the pre-washed fabric in two layers placing the fabrics with wrong sides together. I marked the length and width.
  • Length = Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta length + 1cm seam allowance at the top + 1cm seam allowance at the bottom
  • Width = Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta width + 2.5cm for fastening allowance at the right side + 1cm seam allowance at the right side + 1cm seam allowance at the left side
  • Then follows cutting of the fabrics together.
  • Fabric strips are kept with right sides facing together. I sewed them together leaving a two-inch gap in the middle of a side. This gap is for bringing the right side out.
  • I trimmed the seam allowance near the pointed corners in V shape. This helps to avoid bulky point after turning to the right side.
  • I turned the fabric panel inside out.
  • I sewed along the edges at about 2mm from the edge and sealed the opening.
  • I sewed along the length of the panel, 2.5cm away, in the right side. This is to position eyes for fastening.
  • Mark lines parallel to the panel length for tucks in the side 1 (brown coloured). I marked 3 lines distanced at 1.5 cm each. I took 1st and 3rd tucks length shorter (5 cm) than the 2nd one (6.5 cm). This is to get desired shape. Number of tucks can be increased as wished.
  • Now it is the time to mark for the hooks and eyes. In the side 1 (brown coloured), I marked hooks positions at the right side. I turned the panel to the other side. I marked eyes positions at the right side of the panel in this side 2 (beige coloured). This means hooks and eyes are in opposite sides.
  • Sew tucks.
  • I sewed hooks in the side 1 (brown) and eyes in the side 2 (beige).

Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta is ready. Attach this blouse adjuster to the right side of the blouse. Wear the blouse and fasten the blouse with the hooks of the panel.

Tips for using Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta

  • Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta is comfortable to wear with all the blouse types. Traditional 8 darted yoke front blouses, easy to make sari blouses without yoke and princess cut blouses.
  • Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta can be paired with back opening blouses. In this style, tucks are not suggested to use. This creates a design variation and we will talk about it in the coming post. In this case, the fabric that appears on the right side is changed according to the blouse material.
  • Eye-controlled Tucked Cholakaapta is not suggested to use with sheer sarees. If at all it is used, same coloured blouse adjuster is preferable. It is possible to use a contrast coloured blouse adjuster, but requires expert advice.

Hope the idea gives some hope to reuse your favorite blouse that you couldn’t fit in. Thank you!

Posted in Designing, Dressmaking, Fashion Illustration, Patterns, Sewing, Style Tips | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment