This post deals with drafting instructions for Basic (Plain) Set-in Sleeves that can be used as a base for many of the style variations in Set-in Sleeve.
Hello my dear Tantu Reader!
Weather has changed surprisingly quickly since this Monday as if teasing my words in last post that was scheduled and published on Monday. Clouds dance and dance and dance welcoming the spring! I feel like watching them for the whole day and think, won’t they get tired???
Hmm, I had to wake up for fulfilling the request placed by Ms. Umayal Anand for sleeve drafting instructions and thought of a second post for this week. So, I am back again with Set-in Sleeves!
What are Set-in Sleeves?
Sleeves that are set-into armscye line at shoulder are known as set-in sleeves. They cover the arm part only unlike the raglans that cover even the shoulder.
Basic Set-in Sleeve or Plain Sleeve
Basic set-in sleeve is without any style features. Once the basic construction is understood, it is easy to add any style feature to it.
Above shown is a blouse with slightly below elbow (almost three-quarter long) plain sleeves designed by me in the beginning of year 2010. This type of sleeves was a trend in 2013. Sewn by my all time favourite dressmaker/tailor Mr. Mohan, Setwell Tailors, Puttur. Photography credits to my sister, Ms. Shwetha Ulhas, who patiently spent her precious time to take a good snap (finally!) of a non-cooperative and very shy model (that is me :D). For a short Plain Set-in Style Blouse picture, please click here.
How to Draft Basic Set-in Sleeve Pattern?
- Upper Arm Round: This measurement is either taken directly around the upper arm or calculated using the bust circumference.
While calculating from bust circumference, measurements can be taken differently.
1/6th of Bust Circumference +3cm (This measurement results a stylish look with standing out hem at the arm. The more the upper arm round taken, the more stylish the look is.)
1/8th of Bust Circumference + 3.5cm (This measurement is lesser than the previous one and creates an arm hugging hem.)
- Sleeve Length
- Sleeve Round: Measurement taken round the arm where the sleeve ends.
The instructions are given in the drafting diagram above. Following note would give clearer idea.
1. Take pattern paper on fold. Block out a rectangle having
- ½ of round the upper arm measurement (= 1/6th of bust Circumference + 3cm + 2.5 seam allowance ) as width
- sleeve length (= desired Sleeve Length + 1cm seam allowance at top and 2cm to 5cm seam allowance at bottom) as length
Draw a horizontal line at 1/12th of bust circumference measuring from the top. This would define the sleeve cap height. Width of this line is same as the Upper Arm Round. Note down 2.5cm seam allowance given at the side. It means that seam line falls 2.5cm inside the outline. This is the position of arm pit.
Mark deeper front armscye curve and back armscye curve as shown in red colour. These curves form smooth shapes of letter ‘S’ in reverse. Remember, this entire curved line must measure equal to the armscye round measurement and curved armscye line of the bodice.
Armscye curves of front and back should match at arm pit (that is, 2.5cm inside the Sleeve cap line). These curves may require stretching and shaping at various points to match it to the armscye of the bodice. Care is taken to match the sleeve centre (fold line in the picture above) to the shoulder seam.
Measure ½ of sleeve round and mark it at the bottom as shown. Some ease may also be included. Join this point to the arm pit marked already as shown in orange dotted line. Add 2.5cm seam allowance and draw another line parallel to the previous line. This is the cutting line.
The green dotted line is the bottom fold line. Fold the extra bottom part twice up to the green line while hemming.
Mark vertical grain line for longer sleeves. Mark horizontal grain line for short sleeves. Even diagonal grain line can be marked. This marking entirely depends upon the stretch, fall and drape required.
Cut 2 parts, one for left and the other for right. Sleeves for left and right side would be mirror image of each other.
Note: This construction details are for a short basic/plain sleeve.
Patterns look as below, when open.
Thus we completed drafting! Some of the common style variations of Basic/Plain Set-in Sleeve are – puff sleeves, bell sleeves, cap sleeves, petal sleeves and so on… Click here to view the Draped Designer Salwar Kameez with a gathered style variation. I have a fair collection of different blouse styles. Will show them in future 🙂
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Bye until the next post!