This tutorial post is about making even or uneven shoulder alterations in oversized Kutra/Kurti/Kameez by adding darts based on individual style and design, thus giving suitable style tips.
Namaste Dear Tantu Enthusiast,
I had mentioned in my last introductory post of Fitting an Oversized Kurta/Kurti/Kameez that I would come back with tutorials for Kurta/Kurti/Kameez alterations. Here is the first post in the list.
Kurta Alteration by Dart Method – Style Tips
Darts can be used to fit an oversized Kurta/Kurti with even/uneven shoulder or for a person with even/uneven shoulder. Darted style shoulder alteration looks best on small or medium overall designs as well as on solids. This style is not suitable those garments with emphasising large designs at the neckline and shoulder.
Difficulty level: Easy
- To measure and mark 10 minutes
- Single dart stitching each side (total 2 two pointed darts) 15 minutes
- Multiple darts require 15 minutes for each set
Matching Colour Thread
- Measuring Tape
- Marking chalk
- Sewing Machine
Kurta shoulder fitting for even or uneven shoulder with darts
- We have to measure the shoulder. Two sides can be measured separately if needed more accurate fitting. Say, shoulder is 34cm wide i.e, approximately 13.25 inch wide. This means, for an ideal even shoulder, each side is 17cm (6.6 inch) wide. If shoulder measurement is different in two sides, then we have to note it. Say, 16.5cm at left and 17.5cm at right.
- Then, we have to measure the Kurta/Kurti shoulder. Remember to measure the two sides separately. Say, left side is 20cm and right side is 20cm
- Note down difference in measurements of left side and right side. For even shoulder, Kurta has 3cm extra width each side. For uneven shoulder, Kurta/Kurti has 3.5cm extra width at left side and 2.5cm extra width at right side.
- Then, we will mark midpoint at the shoulder between neck and shoulder edge.
- From this midpoint, we have to draw lines perpendicular to the shoulder. This would be the dart location.
- Take darts according to the extra width noted on each side. If we have to cover up 3.5cm extra width, then the dart width taken is 3.5cm (1.75cm each side). Dart length has to be more than the armscye depth taken (say, 1/6th bust).Dartlengthcan be up to 2cm less than bust point measurement. Let the darts be slightly rounded outwards as shown in the picture.
- The darts are single pointed ones. But, they look like two pointed ones as the shoulder of the front and back parts are already stitched together.
- For multiple darts, we can divide the shoulder width into many halves so that the dividing points will be darts’ locations. Dartsizewillreduce according to the increased number of darts added. Say,whenKurta has 3cm extra shoulder width each side, we can add 3 darts of 1cm (0.5cm each side) each.
- Refer to Taking Measurements for proper method of taking shoulder measurement, bust point and armscye depth.
- Darts can be used when equal or unequal amount of fabric is to be concealed on each side. That means, either Kurta/Kurti has even/uneven shoulder or the person has even/uneven shoulder, we can add darts to cover up the extra width.
- One or more darts can be added as per your wish.
- Dart length is taken more than armscye depth so as to shape the armhole.
- Number of darts on each side should be the same.
- Beginners can draw the fold lines with marking chalk and hand tack the darts before stitching them.
Will come back with another alteration tutorial. Till then, I will wait for your feedback for this post 🙂
Bye until the next post!